ORIGINAL PROTOCOL · TRANSPARENCY · RECORD KEEPING
How we test fragrances: the NOTAS DE HOMEM protocol
This protocol specifies how first-hand fragrance trials will be conducted, documented and published by NOTAS DE HOMEM. It does not mean the 200 fragrances in our library have already been worn or tested by us. Documentary profiles remain labelled as such until adequate first-hand evidence exists.
1. Three evidence levels
- Documentary profile: notes, concentration and version attributed to cited sources, with no first-hand performance measurement.
- First impression: one contact with a sample on paper or skin, explicitly labelled preliminary and never presented as a complete review.
- Documented editorial wear test: at least three wear sessions, each with a date, conditions and observations supporting a first-hand assessment.
2. Preparation and identification
Record brand, exact product name, concentration, batch number where legible, origin of sample, purchase date, whether purchased or gifted, approximate sample age and any authenticity concerns. Similar names do not demonstrate equivalence between editions, concentrations or reformulations.
Avoid layering with other fragrances or scented products. Note moisturiser, exercise, exposure to sun, rain, air conditioning or other relevant conditions. Do not test on irritated skin or after a known adverse reaction; discontinue if discomfort occurs.
3. Testing protocol
- Blotter test: document opening notes and early changes. Blotter results do not replace wear on skin.
- First skin session: apply moderately to a consistent location; record the number of sprays and do not generalise to other wearers.
- Second and third sessions: repeat on separate days, preferably at least 24 hours apart. Where practical, vary one real-life setting and record the difference.
- Observation points: 0, 15, 30, 60, 120, 240, 360 and 480 minutes when practical. Leave missed checkpoints unobserved rather than inventing data.
- Final consolidation: record consistent findings, differences between sessions and whether the evidence is sufficient or inconclusive.
4. Evaluation criteria
First-hand observations may use a descriptive 0–5 scale with supporting notes. These are not laboratory measurements:
- Olfactory evolution: perceived changes and coherence across sessions (0–5).
- Perceived projection: perception at a stated distance and in a stated setting, without asserting instrument-measured distances (0–5).
- Observed longevity: last personally detected checkpoint, noted as censored if monitoring ended while still noticeable (observed hours; no mandatory universal score).
- Contextual versatility: appropriateness in contexts actually tested, distinguishing preference from chemical properties (0–5).
- Personal preference: subjective appraisal with an explanation, not a proxy for audience consensus (0–5).
No automatic overall score is produced. Personal taste, perceived performance and documentary characteristics are reported separately. Insufficiently observed criteria are marked “Not assessed”, not zero.
5. Interpreting projection and longevity responsibly
Longevity is the interval of personal detection in a given session, not a guaranteed skin-performance claim. If a fragrance is still noticeable when monitoring stops at six hours, the record should read “detected through six hours; full duration unknown”. Projection varies with surroundings, olfactory adaptation, amount applied and observer; avoid universal distance claims.
6. Required records and reproducibility
Each session documents date, sample type and origin, version, sprays, application area, approximate temperature if known, setting, any skin factors voluntarily disclosed, observed checkpoints, changes, incidents and uncertainty. Do not publish anyone else's personal information without permission.
Download session log (CSV) · Download scoring criteria (CSV)
7. Editorial independence and commercial disclosures
Each review discloses whether the fragrance was bought, gifted, lent or provided by a brand or retailer; material relationships and affiliate links are disclosed where relevant. A gift does not guarantee a favourable review. Advertising and sponsored content must be clearly distinguished from independent editorial content.
8. Publishing, updates and corrections
First-hand reviews should display the author, trial dates, publication/update dates, sample type, number of sessions, results, documentary sources and limitations. Evidence for one concentration must not be transferred to another. Reformulations or new information may require a dated correction or update.
9. Example review disclosure
Status: documented editorial wear test (only when evidence exists). Sample: commercial bottle or sample, with origin. Sessions: three dated trials. Longevity: observed separately for each day rather than averaged across incomparable conditions. Limitations: individual perception, context and possible reformulation.
Current library status: the 200 profiles are documentary resources. This protocol describes future testing standards; it does not retrospectively certify first-hand tests. Read our editorial and source policy.